Archive for November, 2011
Hanging doors is now easier than ever. In the days before prehung doors, it takes more tools and knowledge to hang a door than it does now.
Imagine a slab door, a door frame removed, hinges and door hardware and should do all the mortising, drilling, rabbeting on the site.
No longer do you need a set of tools such as drills, mortising jig for hinges, strikes, bolts and plates. No jig for drilling the backset for the handle and latch.
Nowadays all you need is a hammer and nail gun drive or nail cutting is complete and a couple of thicknesses.
The first thing you should do is check your opening will depend on the port for the correct format. It should be 2 “larger than the size of the door. Although it was the opening up should be fairly simple and square.
If the opening was framed by someone else, you might want to get out your level and framing square and check that too. Drywallers sometimes believe they are destined for the rough opening and let the drywall run in the opening.
After all vital signs are checked at the door ready to hang. Prehung doors come collect a lot of different ways. They can be purchased with square and provision already nailed on one side and without trim. If no trim installed, I want to say that before I put the door opening. Trim mounted on the hinge side.
More open door into a room and the wall. Frame should be able to move left and right opening. The gap between the door and the jamb on the hinge side is usually about 1 / 8 “inch gap or space specified must be the door. Move around the door frame on the left or right to have the same space on your nails and then cut off the top of the hinge and the lower edge of the hinge. Then nail the strike at the top make sure you still have the same space. fingernail from the rest of the hinge side with 3 or 4 more nails had two nails above all, I usually put in Now nail the rest of the strike begins at the top and work your way down, keeping the same space at the top and the zipper.
Once the door is nailed into the hole on the inside, it’s time to thickness of the door frame. First, pull the door closed to make sure the door hits the stop evenly on the spot. If you press just above the hinge side of the pull towards you until it hits, too. If it affects only the bottom, push the river side zipper away from you until it hits evenly.
Once aligned to the mast of the shims between the jamb and stud opening, being careful not to bow to the opening frame. I put shims behind each hinge and strikes and also at the top and bottom of the strike. I nail these shims with two nails, one on each side of the stop.
The next step is to apply the coating brings out the door. Once this is done, you’re ready for the port hardware. If all goes well, the bolt should engage the strike plate and the door should fit snuggly against the arrests.
You do a remodel and know that you want to add some lights in the room, but your shyness. Where you start is the most common question I get asked. There are some basic guidelines and factors that can help determine where to start and how to proceed.
First we took the room and you need to. Different rooms require different lighting solutions. Rooms such as bedrooms, living room and basement can be sufficiently illuminated by a simple general lighting plan. In the room to about 12 ‘x 12′, a fixture that can hold the ball which combined is equivalent to about 120 watts is enough.
A living room or den can be rectangular, not square. A room is 15 ‘x 12′ would be more evenly illuminated with 6 cans hidden. In this room can be equipped with lighting and wall sconces or table or floor lamp.
Kitchens and bathrooms require more thought. In rooms where activities are performed, it is important that the lighting level is high enough to perform this operation in a safe and comfortable. In the kitchen a good lighting plan all work areas will be well lit. It provides plenty of light and avoids shadows while working at the counter. Spacing is very important in the kitchen. Keep hidden lights about 4 feet away and not more than 5 meters, you will ensure the spread of light.
If you run into a wall and need to ask questions about lighting try Forum Lighting. There are some basic principles of lighting that can help in a long process. One is the understanding that the light in most devices have a certain type of model. For example, the color of light using reflector type lamps shaped like a cone distribution patterns. Slightly overlapping circles of light, you can have a very uniform distribution of light throughout the room.
Because most members of the family to walk upright and they are not, you may not make a complaint about the lighting, the general rule to illuminate a room is to determine the plan of the work plan. This is an imaginary plane at about 30 “off the floor helps to provide a nice even lighting for most tasks in each room. For lamps reflective you can get this information from the manufacturer of the bulb.
There are only a few important things to know and remember, when building an energy-efficient home. These include: insulation, air intrusion, thermal mass, and that windows and holes in the walls of the house lose about the same amount of energy.
Isolation is a means to capture the air and causing the death of slow exchange of energy to warm the cold of space. Most manufacturers use fiberglass insulation. Personally, I prefer to use blown cellulose insulation. In America, we have enhanced the value of the insulation, giving the R-factor. R factor of insulation is a point of reference for the ability of insulation to slow heat transfer and R stands for resistance factors. R factor is only part of the story. Isolation can have a high R factor, but it moves through the air, if it is almost useless. One of the things we do in a short time ago, in building a house, is to use Tyvek, a thin plastic membrane that stops breathing wind. In modern buildings, we usually have to go out in, killing siding, Tyvek insulation, and drywall. Usually this translates into what we call, and R-30 walls.
In other countries you talk about the U-factor. U stands for use factor. And these factors are only using a combination of R factor, and the ability to withstand the intrusion of air. Therefore, the utilization factor is actually more useful than the stringent factor R. For example, a concrete wall, has a low R factor and U factor is high if the rods are made to fit perfectly together. A concrete house has a low resistance factor, because concrete is easy to radiate thermal energy. To protect the concrete wall, you have to protect the exterior walls. And this brings us to heat mass. Windows is a big energy waster. Each glass has a resistance factor of less than one. A thermo pane window has a resistance factor of about two or three, including airspace. The windows have no home is the most expensive to heat. Triple pane windows have a resistance factor of about five. A cloth to cover the entire window increases resistance factor to about 20.
Only the numbers of heavy thermal mass reaches a certain temperature, and want to remain at that temperature. For example, I came home with a brick floor, and many books and heavy furniture, has a lot of thermal mass. Once a house with a lot of thermal mass to achieve a comfortable temperature that tends to keep that temperature for a long time, even after they stop the heat or air conditioning. Offices tend to have high thermal mass. It takes a lot of energy to change the temperature of thermal mass. So, you have to leave the thermostat at the same temperature and do not move up and down.